Sel et Poivre

Fork and Spoon were invited to a Press Tasting Dinner at Sel et Poivre on the upper east side of Manhattan.  And while we don’t want to do too many of these – we prefer anonymous visits – after looking over the everyday menu we decided to give it a whirl.

Sel et Poivre began 20 years ago as a mother/daughter owned restaurant, over the years it evolved into what it is today a husband/wife owned restaurant.

The space is small and getting through the bar to the dining room can be almost impossible.

Fork and Spoon arrived and met our host and hostess and were truly looking forward to this dining experience. The dining room is lovely and warm and our dining companions fabulous. The photographs that line walls both upstairs and down are wonderful, some by famous photographers, some family photos. The bread – fabulous (yes, one of the important things in life, like bottomless iced tea).

To start we were served Fish Soup. Spoon had the sense to say she doesn’t eat fish and was offered another dish – which we will get to. Fork wanted to try the dishes being offered and specifically asked the waiter if there was any shellfish in the soup. Nope. None. No shrimp shells? Nope, notta a one. Okie dokie. Sigh – you know what’s coming, right?

Anyway the soup was very interesting. A bowl of flavorful fish soup is brought to the table along with a plate of toasts, grated cheese and an aioli. It’s sort of a do-it-yourself soup. Very interesting. So the owner comes by, Fork asks – ‘Is there shellfish in the soup?’ ‘Why yes, yes, there is. They use shrimp heads and shells.’ The blanch that came across the tines of the Fork must have clued him into a problem. Off he went to the kitchen and this was the answer he came back with. Sit down, you’re going to love this one. ‘Yes, we always use shrimp shells and heads in the soup, but the chef said (ready?) not in this batch.’  Fork must looked as though I was forged yesterday. The itching commenced. And this set the tone for the rest of the meal as far as Fork was concerned. Thanks for the hives. They were in places no self respecting fork should have them.

You know what? Tell the truth. Inform your staff. Fortunately, Fork is not as highly allergic as I once was.  Anyway, let’s continue…

Spoon (smart cutlery) was brought a lovely plate of pate and the typical accoutrement. The pate was very good. Along with the pate were cornichon, toasts and a grainy mustard.

Following these was a Celery Root Remoulade with Red Beets. We loved the contrast between the bright celery root and the ruby colored beets. Light, refreshing, slight curry flavor to the celery root. All together a nice simple dish.

Our next dish was Skate with Lemon Capers and Basmati Rice. Fork loves skate, and this was very well prepared – butter, lemon, a light saute, some capers, what could be bad. Skate – for those of you who have not tried it – is from the ray family. It is a light and delicate white filet. The skate was served with basmati rice.

Spoon – the non-fish eater (smart cutlery) – was given an alternative dish – which was originally going to be steak, but turned out to be ravioli. The ravioli was filled with smoked mozzarella and asparagus and served with a light tomato and cream sauce. Very good ravioli. (Odd that, ravioli filled with mozzarella being served at a press dinner in a French restaurant, but it must be the itching taking over again.)

Our last course before dessert was Calves Liver a la Lyonnais with mashed potatoes and brocoli. The liver was smothered in onions. There was a little quiet chatter between the Spoon and Fork and Your Vicarious Experience. Fork had never eaten calves liver before, Spoon wasn’t a fan. We all thought it an odd dish to serve. Fork is of the belief if the liver didn’t have feathers at some point, it shouldn’t be eaten. Being the good sports that we are, the 3 of us tried it. I can’t describe the taste – I was too busy itching at the time – but it isn’t something I would like to try again. The mashed potatoes and brocoli were very good. Does that help?

For dessert we were served a Terrine de Chocolate, which sat in raspberry coulis. The terrine was light and chocolatey, very smooth and rich. The raspberry coulis a perfect balancing act with the chocolate.

Sel et Poivre ~ 853 Lexington Avenue ~ 212.517.5780

Le Petit Oven

Knork and Fork sitting in a tree. K-I-S-S-I-N-G. Okay, without making you all too nauseous, Knork and Fork wanted to do something special for their anniversary, but Knork wanted to stay close to home and Fork wanted an adventure. The perfect solution was Le Petit Oven. Located just off Third Avenue on 69th Street in Bay Ridge, this restaurant is truly a hidden gem that Fork is so happy to have FINALLY discovered!

We had passed this lovely 11 table restaurant many, many times, always looking in the window and drooling over the wonderful menu in the window. Had we ever gone in? Nope. Must have been tarnish clouding the senses.

Sitting and watching Chopped one night before our big event, we were delighted and surprised to see Kat Ploszaj, the chef and co-owner of Le Petit Oven, as one of the contestants (she didn’t win, but she should have!). This was a sign. It had to be. This would be the place.

We didn’t have a reservation, and now after Chopped, you really should make one, but we were early enough to be able to get a table. Kat’s partner and co-owner Nicole Guarino is so friendly and welcoming that you instantly feel like family. As we sat and looked at the menu, we watched other diners stroll in. They were almost all greeted by name. We chatted amongst the tables while looking at the menu. They have a great selection of beer and a wonderful wine list. Nicole is very knowledgable about wines and can help with any pairing. AS we overheard her say, she won’t serve any wine she wouldn’t be happy to drink herself.

The menu changes constantly, depending on what motivates Kat when she goes to the markets. It is amazing to watch her in the kitchen – alone – cooking and smiling. You can see the passion on her face and you can certainly taste it in her food.

There is a three course tasting menu available for $35 (a serious bargain) or you can order a la carte. Either way, you are in for a true treat.

For starters, Knork order Duck Spring Rolls. What arrived were four small spring rolls. Golden brown on the outside, crispy crunchy in texture. Knork eyed them suspiciously, thinking ‘they are so small’ – no, this was not said aloud, but after all these years I can see the squirrels running on the treadmill and know what is going on in that head. But just one bite and that look disappeared. They were out of this world.  Filled with tender duck, deep fried to absolute perfection. A sweet chili sauce was served on the side to dip the spring rolls into. They may have been small in size but they really packed a lot of flavor.

Before taking our order, Nicole told us about some changes and substitutions on the menu. One of the things substituted was the soup – which is okay, Fork doesn’t like soup. What was offered in its place was Patata Con Chorizo. It sounded too intriguing to pass up. And we were right. What arrived was a stew-like bowlful of warm and spicy and flavorful. In the thick and tomato-y base were chunks of potatoes, onions, and spicy chorizo. It was so simple and so complex at the same time. There was a lovely smokiness to the dish, but still had a bright freshness to it.  Minced chives were sprinkled on top. Fork wanted to grab the bowl and a loaf of bread and sit alone greedily sopping up what was left in the bowl. You will be happy to know, Fork refrained.

Truth be told, at this point both Knork and Fork wanted the same entrée.  Does Knork not understand the concept of ordering different things so as many dishes as possible can be tried? More level tines prevailed and two entrees were ordered.

Knork ordered the Skirt Steak.  What arrived were perfectly cooked, thin slices of skirt steak. The seasoning was slightly Oriental and really good. The steak was served over white asparagus and a tiny dice of carrots. To make this even more perfect was the soy glaze on the plate. It was – well, umami is the word that comes to mind, so does delicious and more please. The down side of this dish was the crispy potato pancake. It was SO salty it was inedible. The potatoes were great. The crispiness was great. The flavor itself was great. But the salt content – oh, my, my, my.

Must say, though, everything else was so wonderful that they get a total pass for the potato pancake. What’s a little salt between friends?

Fork ordered the Pork Belly. This was the dish that Fork spied each time Le Petit Oven was passed, each time the menu was looked at online. Before even walking in Fork knew this was a dish that had to be ordered. And there was absolutely no disappointment about this dish. Everything at Le Petit Oven is beautifully plated. A lot of attention to detail goes into each dish and how the food looks on the plate. This dish was no exception.  There were layers of flavor and goodness, each different and excellent on their own, that all worked deliciously together. At the bottom was a layer of mashed potatoes; creamy, buttery, rich, perfect. On top of the potatoes was an Asian flavored slaw. Light, refreshing, and cutting through the richness of the potatoes and pork belly. And, let’s not forget the star of this dish, the pork belly. This was a very generous slab of pork belly, very tender in the center, not too ridiculously fatty like a lesser quality of pork belly would be, all leading up to a wonderfully crispy top. This was a little slab-o-heaven.

As always, there has to be room for dessert. There were two desserts that night. Didn’t that make selection fairly simple? I let Knork go first – although Fork already knew what Knork would order – so that two different desserts would land on our table.

Fork ordered the Panna Cotta.  The panna cotta was thyme infused and seriously silky. The thyme was just a background note, but it added so much to this simple, elegant dish. The panna cotta was served on top of a mixed berry compote. Not too sweet, fresh and fruity, simple and a perfect accompaniment for the panna cotta. And just when you think your mouth is as happy as it can be, your spoon scoops up a bit of mango puree and you suddenly have an extra layer of flavor from a burst of tart sunshine. The mango absolutely shot this dessert over the moon. So simple, so fabulous.

Knork ordered Bread Pudding. A lovely square of bread pudding arrived. Fork wanted to dive into the bowl (more restraint). Not soggy at all, as many bread puddings can be. The bread pudding sat in a luscious pool of caramel. Just the right amount of burnished, sweet buttery caramel to play with the rich denseness of the bread pudding. Sprinkle toasted chopped pecans on top and a dollop of freshly whipped cream and you are in dessert heaven.

This was without a doubt the best one of the best meals Fork has eaten while out to dinner in Bay Ridge in a long time – heck, while out to dinner in Brooklyn in a long time! 

The food is delicious. The service warm and inviting. The music is great. If it weren’t for that pesky check at the end you would have thought you were sitting and sharing a meal with friends. We all chatted between courses, talking about the neighborhood and the restaurant. We all craned our necks as beautiful dishes came out of the kitchen to see what each ordered, and much time describing dished to each other so we were all able to share in each other’s experience.

Le Petit Oven is open on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday for dinner. Do yourself a favor, try this restaurant, your taste buds will thank you. Maybe we’ll see you there – we’ll be the ones ooh-ing and aah-ing in the corner!

276 Bay Ridge Avenue ~ Brooklyn, NY ~ 718.833.3443

The Modern

You know Fork, Knife and Spoon have a special place in the cutlery drawer for Danny Meyer, and now we have another reason – The Modern. The Modern is located inside the Museum of Modern Art, and as with many of the Meyer restaurants, there are two restaurants in one, the bar room and the main dining room. Fork and Spoon had dinner in the bar room one night during Restaurant Week.

The Modern is sleek and contemporary. The bar room is slightly more cozy. Nice sized tables, seriously comfy chairs – for those of you who are The Odd Couple fans – the chairs were like sitting in a hand. The tables that are next to the bar are very small, very low and look very uncomfortable. While they take walk-ins in the bar room, they usually seat those at the ridiculous tables next to the bar. Call ahead and make a reservation for the bar room. The main dining room is also very nice. Very modern, very sleek, very white, and overlooking the sculpture garden. The cuisine throughout, very Alsatian in influence. In contrast to the plain white and black of the restaurant are some of the most beautiful flower arrangements you have ever seen – bold, bright and colorful.

The tables for two are extremely large and not crammed next to each other. Even with that Fork and Spoon overheard one of the strangest conversations. Two women sat at a table for two next to us. Same table, same view.  Fork faced the back of the room. Spoon faced the front. At the front of the room there is a large freestanding counter. Cutlery (not us, of course), napkins, glasses, tablecloths are stored on the shelves and on top are gigantic flower arrangements. Each one stood at least 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide – causing a virtual flower wall in your view. Directly behind the very full vases that are on top of the counter is an archway to the kitchen. Not a wide archway, mind you, perhaps 5 feet across. But with the density of the flowers, you would be hard pressed to see an archway –  and even harder pressed to know what was through it.  Upon later inspection – or snoopiness – we realized it was the kitchen, gleaming and shiny.

Anyway, these two women started a huge fuss. Neither of them wanted to eat facing the kitchen. Huh? You couldn’t have seen into the kitchen if you tried. Well, the fuss continued. They did NOT want to sit at this table, and neither of them would face the horror of looking into the kitchen. So they insisted the staff moved them. And they did. To a table with the exact same view, only further toward the back of the restaurant. Well, not much further, perhaps 15 feet further. Fork and Spoon are sure they were just angling for a table for 4, as those tables were not in that line of view.

The iced tea is very fresh, bottomless and served in beautiful glasses.

The Restaurant Week menu at The Modern was huge! 11 starters, 10 mains, 7 desserts! In a dining situation where Fork and Spoon usually have to find something to try, we found ourselves having more difficulty deciding what not to try – but we managed.

And, as always, one of the wonderful components of any Danny Meyer restaurant is the staff. The Modern was no exception. Our waiter, Brian, was fantastic. Knowledgable about food and ingredients. What he wasn’t sure about, he was very happy to go into the kitchen and find out. Turns out, Brian is a fellow foodie and spends his free time eating his own adventures at Eat This NY – check it out when you get a chance. Right now he’s on the quest for the perfect pizza!

By the way, the bread was amazing. There were tiny baguettes – maybe four inches long. Terrific, you can have 2 ends, the crusty outside and toothsome inside, and all to yourself. There were also slices of an earthy whole wheat bread. A little odd in the combination department, but oh so yummy.

Our first starter was the Tarte Flambee Alsatian. This was fabulous. Very, very thin crust – not a cracker crust, but an ultra-thin 10″ round bread crust. On top of the crust was creme fraiche, onions and applewood smoked bacon. Each of these ingredients has its own very strong and very independent flavor. Usually you would think of these ingredients with more subtle flavors. Yet, when together on top of the crust they became a wonderful symphony of flavors. Each ingredient complementing the other, but each still retaining their own unique flavor notes. We were also surprised at the size of the appetizer. This was a very generous sized crust and no skimping on any of the ingredients. Seriously good.

Our second starter was Warm Lamb and Goat Cheese Terrine.  Again, two very strong flavors that manage to compliment each other perfectly. The lamb was beautifully tender. The goat cheese, while strong in flavor, was the perfect foil for the lamb. Also in the terrine were toasted pistachios. All so Mediterranean in flavor, all so perfect together. Along with the terrine was a watercress salad, with an amazing dressing. The dressing was watercress, lemon, olive oil, s&p – and I can’t remember, but perhaps if Brian reads this he would ask the chef again for us!

When you sit for a meal like this, you just don’t want the food to stop coming. Each dish a delight. Each perfectly crafted and plated. Each flavor so well thought out and presented.

Our main courses were a little harder to pick. I left the decisions to Spoon. It is so much easier that way. Spoon always picks the right dishes. Fork just sees the ingredients and wants everything!

Our first main dish was Pan Roasted Hangar Steak with Spaetzle and Beluga Beans. This steak was beautiful. Beautifully cooked. Beautifully seasoned. Beautifully tender. The spaetzle was soft and buttery. Smaller than Fork has had before, about the size of a lima bean. The size was perfect to match the Beluga Beans. Beluga Beans are just a type of lentil. The lentils and spaetzle were in a rich broth. On the side was a small salad of watercress and frisee. Strewn on top were fried lentils. Yes, fried lentils! Very interesting. Not in the flavor aspect, but in the texture aspect.

Our second main dish was Duck Confit a l’Orange with Roasted Brussel Sprouts and Fingerling Potatoes. Brian no sooner set this beautiful dish down in front of Fork and Spoon than it was devoured. This goes onto the list of best dishes ever. The duck skin was very crisp, but under the skin was the most wonderful, melt in your mouth duck confit. Under the greenery were roasted potatoes and brussel sprouts. Fork not usually the brussel sprout lover, loved these. The duck sat in a pool of wonderful blood orange sauce. The flavor was so incredible, we just kept eating and eating and eating until it was gone.

We were contemplating asking for another duck for dessert, but our sweet tines got the better of us.

First we had the Coffee Caramel Dome with vanilla icecream and amaretto gelee. First, let’s talk about the gelee. Those tiny cubes are the gelee. Personally, Fork didn’t taste anything resembling an Amaretto flavor. What stuck out was a pure alcohol flavor. It’s amazing how strong the flavor was in that tiny, little cube. Now onto the dessert itself. The dome was panna cotta like in texture. There were two layers – one layer caramel and the other coffee. What a wonderful flavor combination. The presentation was lovely, the dome had great texture and flavor, and as if those factors weren’t enough, the dome was topped with caramel and fleur de sel, and there were two thin sheets of chocolate leaning against either side of the dome. There was also a small bit of the caramel decorating the plate. An added bonus to this lovely dessert was vanilla icecream sitting on chocolate crunchy bits. Not sure if the icecream was necessary. It didn’t really lend anything to the dome, and seemed to be there as filler for the plate. Was it good? Yes. Did we eat it? Naturally. Would we have missed it? Probably not.

Our second dessert was the Hazelnut Dacquoise with Milk Chocolate Chantilly. So many great things going on here. The hazelnut dacquoise is a thin layer of cake, chock full of hazelnuts. Sitting on top of the dacquoise were two thin sheets of gianduja - hazelnut chocolate. On top of those was a quenelle of milk chocolate chantilly - which is really a milk chocolate whipped cream. And, on top of that, another sheet of the gianduja. There were little dollops of the chantilly around the plate each studded with a candied nut. This was so light and delicate, yet so deep and rich in flavor. The perfect ending to a perfect meal.

The Modern was fabulous. Definitely in the top 10 of favorite restaurants! Give it a try, you won’t be sorry.

Danny Meyer, what’s next? Maybe Greek?

The Modern ~ 9 West 53rd Street ~ NYC, NY ~ 212.333.1220

Follow my blog with bloglovin